The North(ish) Lass

Explore the North.

Category: Travel

  • Spooky Places To Visit This Halloween

    Spooky Places To Visit This Halloween

    It’s spooky season! So, without further ado, I thought I’d do a round up of four haunted places that you can visit and experience the paranormal this Halloween!

    Muncaster Castle, Cumbria

    Do you want to spend a night in a haunted castle? At Muncaster they offer overnight ghost sits, where a small group can spend the night in the Tapestry Room, listening for the sounds of ghosts. The Tapestry Room is where visitors report disturbed nights, hearing footsteps in the corridor outside, and hearing a child crying from an adjoining room before being comforted by a lady singing. The story linked to this is that of Margaret Pennington, who died in the castle during her childhood from a bout of illness.

    Golden Fleece Pub, York

    The Golden Fleece Pub stands just over the road from York’s most iconic and historic street – The Shambles. Built before 1503 (this is when it first appears in the city records), and initially owned by the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall, functioning as a coaching house. From 1656 it began operating as an inn, but it was not officially licenses until 1668.

    The beer garden is named after the most famous ghost of the Fleece; the Lady Alice Peckett, wife of the Lord Mayor of York at the beginning of the eighteenth century; she has been seen walking the hallways and stairways of the pub at night by many guests. Another ghost is reportedly that of a North American airman from World War II, who was staying at the Inn whilst on leave. He leaned out of one of the top floor windows and fell to his death, and there have since been sightings of a ghost wearing Canadian 1940s uniform.

    Many of the ghost tours of York feature the Fleece.

    Chillingham Castle, Northumberland

    The aptly named Chillingham Castle occupied a very strategic position during the bloody border wars between England and Scotland throughout the High and Late Middle Ages, meaning the castle often came under attack, or was raided by invading forces. During his campaign agains the Scots, Edward I stayed at Chillingham in 1298 before continuing on to the battle of Falkirk where the Scottish Leader William Wallace was captured.

    Other royals, namely Charles I and Edward VIII, have also stayed at Chillingham.

    ‘All houses in which men have lived and died are haunted houses. Through the open doors the harmless phantoms on their errands glide, with feet that make no sounds upon the floors.’ – Longfellow, poet, describing Chillingham Castle.

    Chillingham offers an array of Ghost Tours and Ghosts Hunts around the castle in the evenings and even overnight. You can see the offers here (although many are already sold out for 2025 – at least you’ll know where to look for next Halloween if it’s your thing!). Will you be (un)fortunate enough to see the pantry ghosts, or hear the spooky voices in the chapel?

    The spookiest/grimmest part of Chillingham has got to be the Torture Chamber. A display of medieval implements of punishment and persuasion are on display here, providing brave visitors with information about their grisly purpose and opportunity to thank their lucky stars that such practices are not in use today!

    Samlesbury Hall, Lancashire

    Samlesbury Hall, located just outside of Blackburn, was built in 1325 by Gilbert de Southworth, and was the primary residence of the Southworth family until the early 17th century. Due to it’s seven hundred year history it’s had plenty of time to collect a few ghosts and spooky stories along the way!

    Samlesbury claims that they have thirteen unique ghosts haunting the hall and the grounds. There have been hundreds of spooky reportings from guests, former residents, and staff, across the centuries. The first published account of ghosts at Samlesbury Hall was a book published in 1873, giving the site a long legacy of the paranormal and reporting on it.

    The Ghost Room at Samlesbury Hall is located in the attic of the house and was opened in Autumn 2023. This was the first time the room has been open to the public and in use in nearly seven hundred years. Here you can read testimonies, audio stories, and visual media relating to the ghosts that haunt the Hall.

    The most famous ghost to haunt the Hall is Lady Dorothea Southworth, often referred to as the ‘Lady In White.’ She has been seen/reported numerous times since Elizabethan times.

    Have you ever experienced spooky happenings? Where was it? What was it like? Let me know in the comments below!

  • Dark Skies in Northumberland National Park (Part One)

    Dark Skies in Northumberland National Park (Part One)

    Northumberland has some of the best stargazing locations and events in the UK. As an internationally designated Dark Sky Park since 2013 with “pristine skies”, Northumberland National Park and Kielder Water & Observatory are perfect for stargazers, both enthusiasts and beginners. The Dark Sky Park stretches over five-hundred square miles, making it the largest protected dark sky area in Europe. There has been some incredible photos of the night skies, including the stunning aurora borealis (Northern Lights) taken in Northumberland, and whilst I haven’t been lucky enough to see the Northern Lights myself yet, just looking at the photos is awe inspiring.

    There are many options for how to experience Northumberland’s Dark Skies, with lots of venues offering dark skies experiences or stargazing events. One of these is the Twice Brewed pub, just up the road from the Hideaway Huts, that now has it’s own observatory (with large aperture telescopes), planetarium, and regularly hosts astronomy evenings with experts. The Planetarium hosts shows regularly throughout the Autumn and Winter, with various shows scheduled specifically for children, with extra around school holidays. You can find out more about the Planetarium and the astronomy events here.

    The Twice Brewed Inn is in partnership with Kielder Observatory; located on the edge of the Kielder Water and Forest.

    ‘Say goodbye to summer constellations and hello to winter favourites like the Pleiades, Taurus, and Orion, which brings the spectacular Orionid meteor shower later in the month. For telescope users, the Ghost Nebula and the Swimming Alligator Cluster are October highlights. Plus, catch Saturn and Jupiter rising as the nights grow longer.’ – Kielder Observatory Website

    Image from Kielder Observatory about which constellations are visible in winter.

    Staying at the Hideaway Huts is the only time in the UK I’ve been able to see the colours of the Milky Way when lying out in the middle of the night, looking up at the sky. The only other place I’ve ever been able to do that is in rural Australia! Whilst this does say something about the amount of light pollution we have around us at all times, it is nice to know that there are still places in the UK where you can get away from the incessant light that ruins the night sky, and find places that are truly dark. I said in a previous article that it is wonderful to stop and look at the stars, and it’s amazing that there are now more formal events to explore the solar system and beyond, for people of all levels of interest and knowledge in astronomy.

    I’ll be doing another article later in the year (hopefully) after a night skies experience. Of course, this will be dependent on the weather (can’t do much if it’s cloudy!), but fingers crossed that the event will be able to go ahead.

  • Things To Do In Lancaster (In A Day)

    Things To Do In Lancaster (In A Day)

    A Morning in Lancaster

    Start off the morning by having breakfast in one of our many independent cafes, which you can read more about in my ‘Cafe Culture in Lancaster‘ series.

    Follow up the lovely breakfast by going for a tour of Lancaster Castle. This will need to be prebooked as the tour is guided, in small groups, by a knowledgeable tour guide. The castle has a history dating from the high medieval period right through to the present day (it ceased to be a HM Prison in 2011). Following that you can have a look around the Priory that is adjacent to the castle or have a wander down the hill towards the river to look at the ruins of the Roman Baths. There’s not a huge amount left of the ancient monument there, but it’s interesting to see evidence of just how long humans have been settled and building on the banks of the River Lune.

    Front Gate of Lancaster Castle

    If you need (or want) lunch after all of that, there are many pubs and eateries to choose from in Lancaster. I will be doing an article in the coming weeks about some of the pubs that can be found in the city, so keep your eyes peeled for that. Off the top of my head, I would suggest The Sun, the Three Mariners, Merchants 1666, or the Water Witch, which all do excellent pub food.

    Afternoon in Lancaster

    In the afternoon, depending on where your interests lie there are several different options. If you want to continue in the history theme of things, I suggest having a wander around Lancaster Museum, found in the middle of the market square. This fascinating museum takes you through the history of the region and the city from the earliest human occupation to the present day, including the links to the Wars of the Roses, the Witch Trials (the first convictions for witchcraft in the seventeenth century occurred in Lancaster), and the oft-glossed over involvement of the city in the English Slave Trade. For more information on the latter, a visit to the Lancaster Maritime Museum is also on the cards.

    Ashton Memorial

    If, however, you’ve been historied out by the visit to the castle in the morning, I suggest a visit to Williamson Park, the lovely open space to be found at the top of the city, with the in-situ Ashton Memorial looking out over the city and surrounding countryside in all direction. In the park you can also find a wildlife park and butterfly house, with lots of interesting critters and creatures to take a look at. If fauna isn’t necessarily your thing, then a wander around the park and surrounding woodland is a relaxing way to pass the time on a nice day, although it is worth being aware that the park and surrounding area is fairly hilly, and whilst it is accessible to wheelchairs and motorised scooters, those with ambulatory difficulties without aid might struggle a little, depending on conditions. If you’re up at the park as the sun begins to go down, you’re in for a treat, watching the sunset over Morecambe Bay with the Lake District Hills in the distance, a beautiful location to the end the day.

    Lancaster itself sits on the main West Coast trainline, so as your day comes to an end there are plenty of trains to take you either North or South, depending on where you want to go next. The city is also adjacent to junction 34 of the M6 motorway, so is easily accessible by car.

  • 32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 3/5)

    32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 3/5)

    So my birthday has come and gone, and I am now 32, heading off into another year-long journey around the sun. I decided to celebrate that I’d do a list of thirty-two places I’d like to visit in the North, or things that I would like to experience or do. This is not a list of things I’m going to do in the next year, as a sort of checklist, some of these are pie-in-the-sky dream places I want to go, whilst others are more attainable and I have concrete ideas and plans to actually do. So, that being said here’s my list of things I’d like to do in the North, just to illustrate how many things there are to do, and how amazing this region is!

    Go to a Dark Skies event in Northumberland

    Parts of Northumberland are an International Dark Sky Park, and it is one of the best places in the UK to see all that the night sky have to offer. I’ll be doing a longer article in October about the Dark Skies experience in November, and how the Hideaway Huts could be the perfect bolthole to have a Dark Skies experience, so stay tuned for that!

    Do a Ghost Tour in York

    I did a ghost tour in York many many years ago, probably when I was about nine, and I remember it scaring the beejeezus out of me then… I suspect it might be a little less terrifying these days, but the stories and historical insights that come with a ghost tour are still fascinating. As York is a city steeped in history, from Pre-Roman, Roman, Viking, Medieval, Georgian, and into the 20th century, there are plenty of ghouls and ghosties hiding around the corners to be learned about. Perfect for spooky season!

    Make sure you go with a reputable company in order to get the best value for money. I would recommend the Original Ghost Tour who have been doing tours through the streets of York for over fifty years!

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    See Red Squirrels in Northumberland or Cumbria

    I’ve spoken about this a few times, but seeing red squirrels in the wild is one of the top things I really want to do. I’ve seen red squirrels abroad, and I’ve seen them in protected wildlife sanctuaries, but never seen them in the small enclaves in the north where they are bouncing back. Can’t wait until the moment I first see one in the wild, it’ll be magical!

    Stay at Rothay Manor, Ambleside

    I have to admit, I have a bit of a vested/personal interest in this one. Both my nana and my mum worked at Rothay Manor, many moons ago, in the 1980s. I remember going to Rothay for my nana’s 70th birthday lunch and it being very lovely, but I was a bit young to really take it all in. My nana has since passed away, so I would love to take a trip down memory lane and go back to the hotel where both she and my mum worked.

    Go and see the Lancaster Footlights Pantomime!

    It’s coming towards that time of year again, when Christmas Pantomimes are putting on their spectacular shows! I was lucky enough to be cast in the Lancaster Footlights Panto last year, but sadly missed out this year. Nevertheless, I will be enthusiastically cheering them on from the side-lines (or the wings!) because it is a fantastic show and I know it’s going to be blummin’ amazing. This year Footlights Presents Snow White, doing an array of shows across late November and throughout December. A good friend of mine, Annie Hughes, is taking on the title role, and with a voice like an angel I know she’ll smash it. Tickets will sell out, so if you want to go and see this great production, I strongly suggest you get in early!

    Ride the Railway from Lancaster to Carlisle via Millom

    The quickest way (when it’s working properly) to go from Lancaster to Carlisle is straight up the West Coast Main Line, but if you’ve got a little bit more time, the ride around the coast via Arnside and Millom is a beautifully scenic ride. I mean, the ride up the main line is quite pretty as well, but riding along the coast and up past the Solway Firth is seriously beautiful, but it’s definitely not the quickest way to get from A to B – definitely one for the day you’ve got more time to ride.

    Try Archery at Muncaster Castle Weapons Hall

    Do you have what it takes to be a Medieval Knight? With a regular ticket to Muncaster you can go along to the Weapons Hall and “have a go” with a limited number of arrows/axes, but if you’d like to give it more of an in-depth go, you can upgrade to an unlimited ticket so you can get more tries. I’m pretty sure that I’d be terrible at this, but I think it’d be a lot of fun to have a go!

    Go to the top of Blackpool Tower

    On a nice day, the view from the top of Blackpool Tower stretches for miles and miles, as far as the Borders one way, and the Welsh Mountains in the other direction. I went up to the top of the tower once at night, so you could see all the illuminations stretching away down the front, but it would be nice to go up on a clear day and see how far the horizon stretches.

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    So there you have it – seven out of thirty two of things I’d like to do – we’re up to nineteen out of the thirty two – stay tuned for the final thirteen! This is going to be a bit of a long series I guess, but there are just so many things to do around the North and if I did them all in one go (or even in three articles) it would end up being so long you’d never reach the end! If you had to pick three places to go in the North, where would it be? What should be on my list? I guarantee there will be places you love that I won’t even know about, so drop me a comment below or an email at bryony@thenorthishlass.co.uk and let me know what I should feature!

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  • 32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 2/5)

    32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 2/5)

    It’s my birthday coming up, and this year I’m turning 32, so I decided to do a list of thirty-two places I’d like to visit in the North. This is not a list of things I’m going to do in the next year, as a sort of checklist, some of these are pie-in-the-sky dream places I want to go, whilst others are more attainable and I have concrete ideas and plans to actually do. So, that being said here’s my list of things I’d like to do in the North, just to illustrate how many things there are to do, and how amazing this region is!

    Go to Whitby Goth Weekend

    The next Whitby Goth Weekend is from 30th October – 2nd November 2025.

    “Join us as we journey through the ever shifting tides of unconventional culture, and immerse yourself in our delightfully dark domain, for here, the pulse of Alternative and Bohemian lifestyle thrives, waiting to captivate your soul. Unveil a tantalizing tapestry woven together with threads of Music, Literature, Fashion, Artists, Events, and the pursuits of Friendship and Freedom. Our solemn quest is to exalt the realm of Goth & Alternative Subcultures, and to weave a unifying cloak that envelopes the reverent hearts of Alternative and Bohemian Communities across the globe.”

    If you’ve ever been to Whitby during the Goth Weekend when you’re not a Goth, it’s like being in another world. In case you didn’t know, there’s so many different types of Goth – not just the stereotypical image of head-to-toe black like a Victorian mourner. Yes, that is definitely as type of Goth look, but there is also steampunk, romantic goth, cyber goth, emo, pastel goth, gothabilly, bohemian goth… to be honest, the list could go on! So, when you go to Whitby, and see all of the amazing clothing and aesthetics that people wear is stunning. I specifically don’t call the “costumes,” because yes whilst some goths do don specific costumes when they attend events like this that might reflect a certain character, for most this is their day-to-day clothing. It’s not a costume, it’s their clothes. And they look incredible. The time and effort that goes into some of these pieces and these looks is mind-blowing.

    Of course there’s plenty of Gothy things to do in Whitby as well, with the prime one being to walk up the 200 steps to Whitby Abbey, to learn about the inspiration behind Bram Stoker’s Dracula. There are old pubs to have a drink in, cobbled streets to wander down, and curio shops to browse. I can’t wait to go back.

    Go to Blackpool Pleasure Beach

    I went to Blackpool Pleasure Beach when I was kid, but I don’t really remember it, other than the fact that it was raining! I used to really enjoy rollercoasters when I was a teenager, (even the ones that turn you upside down), but I’m not sure I could do that anymore. I say this because when I went to RockPrest in June, I went on one of the fairground rides that swings you up high and then comes down on an arm (I have no idea what these rides are called), and as I sat there I was like “uh-oh this was a mistake,” but I managed to get that feeling under control, but it is a totally alien sensation that sends your adrenaline skyrocketing. I think it was because I hadn’t done in so long, so my body wasn’t used to it. I’d love to try it again on a rollercoaster! Also, I’ve never been on the world famous Pepsi Max (The Big One), and I feel like I should definitely give it a try!

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    Ride the Settle to Carlisle Railway

    This one is fairly self-explanatory, but I’d love to ride this railway through some of the most beautiful countryside in the North (and that is a steep competition). There are heritage steam trains that run on this line, and I think it would be really cool to ride through beautiful countryside on a steam train. I’d feel like I was in a Romance novel!

    Each Lunch at Rogan & Co in Cartmel

    Rogan & Co is a Michelin starred restaurant owned by Simon Rogan, who also owns L’Enclume in Carmel, along with other restaurants elsewhere. They pride themselves on having their own farm only a mile away from the village where they grow/raise as much of their ingredients as is possible, so they control the quality and provenance of all their ingredients. Obviously I’m a big fan of this because it significantly reduces the food miles and the environmental cost for supplying the restaurants.

    This is one of those slightly pie-in-the-sky options because this is definitely on the pricey side. It’s not as pricey as eating at L’Enclume just around the corner where the lunch menu is £125pp, and the tasting menu is £200+pp. Lunch at Rogan & Co is £49 for three courses (available Wed-Sat), or £95pp for a six course tasting menu. And it looks delicious, with flavours I wouldn’t normally try and intensities I wouldn’t cook myself. Definitely something I would love to do one day, but I’m going to have to save my pennies!

    Complete Parkrun at Williamson Park, Lancaster

    Okay, so this is a personal goal of mine and I would not suggest to anybody who shudders at the thought of running that this is something that they should add to their lists. I used to run 2-3 times a week, but then I started a somewhat physical job, so that kind of fell off the radar. But this is still something I’d like to do, just to say that I’ve done it. I’ve got friends who do this every week, or are approaching their 150th run, which is very impressive! Aside from being something to work towards, Williamson Park is also a really pretty place to explore and be in, so it’ll be nice to do, even if I don’t do especially well with my time!

    Go back to NOLA in York

    I went to NOLA for my 30th birthday dinner and it was amazing. It’s a New Orleans style restaurant with a jazzy/speakeasy vibe in the heart of York, that do smaller plates so you can try lots of different things. They recommend that each person has two of the “main” plates and one side. Although if you have a slightly smaller appetite, I think that between two people you could have three “mains” and one or two sides, and still have plenty of food. If you’re hungry though, absolutely go for the two or three main plates each, because they’re delicious.

    When I last went there I tried Jambalaya for the first time, as well as breaded goats cheese, whilst the friends I was with had a vast array of different dishes including Gumbo, Oysters, Mac & Cheese etc. etc. and I got to try bites from lots of them. One of the main reasons I picked it is that I had two friends joining the party who have Vegan diets and, unlike a lot of restaurants where they only have one or two V/VE options, NOLA has a whole menu page of eight different dishes for veggies and vegans, giving plenty of choice. Would wholeheartedly recommend!

    So there you have it – another six out of thirty two of things I’d like to do. This is going to be a bit of a long series I guess, but there are just so many things to do around the North and if I did them all in one go (or even in three articles) it would end up being so long you’d never reach the end! If you had to pick three places to go in the North, where would it be? What should be on my list? I guarantee there will be places you love that I won’t even know about, so drop me a comment below or an email at bryony@thenorthishlass.co.uk and let me know what I should feature!

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  • 32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 1/5)

    32 Places I Want To Visit Or Want To Do… (Part 1/5)

    It’s my birthday coming up, and this year I’m turning 32, so I decided to do a list of thirty-two places I’d like to visit in the North. This is not a list of things I’m going to do in the next year, as a sort of checklist, some of these are pie-in-the-sky dream places I want to go, whilst others are more attainable and I have concrete ideas and plans to actually do. So, that being said here’s my list of things I’d like to do in the North, just to illustrate how many things there are to do, and how amazing this region is!

    Go to Walney Island

    Walney Island is a wildlife haven that you get to from Barrow-In-Furness. Whilst some Neolithic remains have been found at Walney Island which in itself is interesting to me, I’d be going specifically for the nature reserves that are found on the Northern and Southern tips of the island; species to be seen include plovers, oystercatchers, otters, natterjack toads, grey seals and unique flora. Definitely a place to take a (well fitting) hat though, as it’s been named the windiest place in North-West Britain!

    Courtesy of the Wildlife Trust

    Stay at the Quiet Site

    The Quiet Site at Ullswater has been on my list for ages. Named AA Campsite of the Year in 2024, it is a place that does what it says on the tin… it’s a place in that’s peaceful, to get away from the rush of it all. It’s also a great place to see red squirrels in the UK, and I can’t imagine anything more wonderful that waking up in my glamping pod, getting a cup of tea, and watching red squirrels as the early morning sun came up over the dewy grass. Perfect.

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    Go to Hexham Book Festival

    Every spring Hexham hosts a book festival with local, national, and international authors speaking, and I’ve been wanting to go for a while. I’m what you would call a book dragon, as opposed to a book worm. I hoard books… I don’t necessarily read them all (not the point I know!), but yeah I have hundreds of books. I just recently moved house, and not kidding, there must have been twenty+ boxes of books out of a relatively small flat. Although, to be honest, I see books kind of like wine, or good food, you’re not sure what you’re going to be in the mood for, so you might as well have a lot to choose from!

    Anyway, this year they had authors and speakers such as L. J. Ross (crime writer), Jonathan Coe (author), Pam Ayers (poet), Mike Berners-Lee (author and climate activist), Wayne Sleep (author and ballet dancer), and Julie Beckett (writer for the Archers), so there was plenty to choose from. Can’t wait to see who they come up with next year!

    See Dolphins off the Northumberland Coast

    As any readers of mine from May know, I went on a trip to the Farne Islands that month, but I wasn’t lucky enough to see any dolphins or orcas that have been seen around that coastline. I am determined that I am going to see some, so I guess I’ll just have to go back.

    I have been lucky enough to see dolphins a couple of times in my life – once or twice off the coast of Scotland in the Moray Firth, and another time when I was on a boat in Spain. Just because I’ve seen them before doesn’t mean I don’t want to do it again… you can never seen dolphins too many times, right?

    Visit Beatrix Potter’s House

    Courtesy of the National Trust

    Growing up I loved Beatrix Potter. Loved. To the extent that one of my first sentences (apparently) was the slightly nonsensical “Pit Pat Paddle Pat… Pit Pat Paddle Pat,” which is what Jemima Puddleduck says as she walks along in the TV show. I also watched the VHS (showing my age now!) of the ballet by the Royal Ballet Company until it wore out. And, to this day, I have a whole bag full of Beatrix Potter plush toys with the tags still on. Sadly they sit in that bag in the under roof storage as I’ve got nowhere to store them out. I’d be very willing for a child who loves Beatrix Potter as much as I did to have them, because I’d rather that than them be hidden away forever. Anyway, that’s off the point a bit, I’d love to visit Hill Top farmhouse again, and wander through the gardens and buildings that so inspired her and her wonderful characters.

    What was your favourite Beatrix Potter story?

    Spend a weekend in Durham

    I have never been to Durham. I know, shocking right? I have been all over the North, but for some reason or another, I have never made it to Durham, and I really want to go. As a complete history nerd, the city is fascinating to me, and aside from that it looks exceedingly pretty, with independent shops and eateries to explore. This one is pretty self-explanatory to be honest, it looks like a wonderful little city, and I’d love to go.

    Image by K. Mitch Hodge

    So there you have it – six out of thirty two of things I’d like to do. This is going to be a bit of a long series I guess, but there are just so many things to do around the North and if I did them all in one go (or even in three articles) it would end up being so long you’d never reach the end! If you had to pick three places to go in the North, where would it be? What should be on my list? I guarantee there will be places you love that I won’t even know about, so drop me a comment below or an email at bryony@thenorthishlass.co.uk and let me know what I should feature!

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  • A Ride Through The South Tyne Valley

    A Ride Through The South Tyne Valley

    Sometimes going off the beaten track is the best thing to do. To get “lost” with purpose can be great fun (of course, these days, it’s difficult to get well and truly lost, what with near blanket GPS coverage in the UK). What you can do, at least, is try and veer away from the familiar, to take the road less travelled, so to speak. Sometimes you do this on purpose, more often than not, it’s by accident, and you end up asking yourself (or the other person in the car); “where the heck are we going?!” Well, as long as you have enough petrol, and don’t have an emergency/appointment to attend to, then just go with it.

    Anyway, a couple of weeks ago, I headed up to Northumberland with my mum and driving up the oh-so-pretty M6 (not), we noticed there was a ridiculous amount of traffic on the other side heading south, where people seemed to be sitting for a while. Mum’s immediate reaction was “I’m not sitting in that on the way back,” so we needed to find an alternative way. The problem is that between where we were and home… the Pennines are in the way, so it would involve going over them. We’d never done that before so it would be a little bit of an adventure, even just a small one.

    Image by David Head

    On a little bit of a side note – one of the things I like doing, and I find brings me a lot of joy, is pretending that I’m going on an adventure, even when I’m doing something really mundane. Maybe it’s because I loved fantasy or adventure books as a kid. I think it’s also that we have a tendency to focus so much on the destination, or are too busy looking at our phones/gadgets etc. that we forget to actually really look at the world around us. I know this is heading off into the mindfulness realm rather than about the North, but I find that it really works for me, and also helps me pay attention to my surroundings. I started trying to do this when I was going on walks, even setting myself the challenge of spotting things that began with ‘A’, ‘B’, etc. etc. so that I was really looking around me, and taking in what was there.

    So, anyway, back to the journey. We turned off into the countryside just after Haltwhistle (happily also avoiding long traffic lights at Brampton). It was foggy the morning we did this, and I was a bit worried we’d be driving through country roads in pea soup, but it actually burnt out within a couple of miles, to reveal beautiful countryside. That I’d never seen before. Because we’d always taken the “quickest” route from A to B, we’d missed out on this gorgeous winding road through the South Tyne Valley. It was wild enough with craggy hills, forests, and the river running through the valley. With the sun shining over the tops of the hills, and with the purple heather on the ground (mid August – early September for the best heather), it was a really beautiful ride.

    We stopped off in the village of Alston, which was a really pretty village, but like so many other places has clearly suffered in the downturn of economics/covid etc. There was evidence with independent shops that the community was trying to pick itself up, make the village vibrant and centred around the community, but it was still very quiet. It was such a shame because, as I said, the village architecture and surroundings were so pretty, and I felt like at one point it would have been a thriving town. Maybe, I was just there on the wrong day.

    Alston Village Centre

    Anyway, after that we headed towards Penrith, climbing up to the top of Hartside Summit (Altitude of 1903 ft). We pulled over into the car park at the top to take in the view. It was a little bit hazy over the Eden Valley, but still a far-reaching view. I imagine on a clear day you’d be able to see the coast and the Lake District Mountains, and potentially even further afield (I’ve heard some people say they can see the Welsh Mountains from high points in the NW (don’t know if you’d be able to see that far from Hartside; there might be some things in the way!). The drive down should be taken with care as there is plenty of hairpin bends (I would not want to be doing that in the middle of winter!).

    The rest of the journey was a pleasant amble through the countryside towards Penrith and then further down. Yes, it took us a bit longer than it would have if we’d have gone down the motorway, but the ride was much more pleasant and it was a really nice to get away from the traffic and into the countryside. I would definitely recommend it from time to time, just turn off the main road… sure keep an eye on the GPS… but then see where the country road takes you!

  • A Day Out In Corbridge (Part Two)

    A Day Out In Corbridge (Part Two)

    After a morning in Corbridge, enjoying Grant’s Bakery & Patisserie, Vintage by the Tower, and Forum Books (read Part One for all of the information), in the afternoon it’s time to explore the amazing history the town has to offer.

    First things first: the Romans. The Romans left a huge footprint throughout this part of world, and Corbridge offers just one of the beautiful historic sites available to visit. You can walk from the centre of town down to the Roman ruins which can be found at the edge of Corbridge, it’s a distance of about a mile. Alternatively there is also a car park at the site, and I believe the local bus also runs past the entrance at various times.

    During the Roman occupation of Britain, Corbridge was possibly known as Coria, although there is plenty of debate as to what the place-name actually was with Corstopitum and Corie Lopocarium also suggested by contemporary records (I’m going to stick with Coria). Coria was the most northerly settlement in the Roman Empire, established in the late 1st Century AD, probably in the decade after the beginning of construction on Hadrian’s Wall, beginning as a fort to house soldiers marching on the crossroad between the Stanegate Road (East-West) and the Dere Street (North-South). It was only after the Roman’s permanently fell back to Hadrian’s Wall in 163 AD that the fort was abandoned by the army (in favour of the larger Vindolanda), and Coria became a predominately civilian settlement, thought to be part of the supply network for Emperor Septimius Severus’ northern campaigns.

    By Birley, Eric, 1906-1995 – https://archive.org/details/corbridge-roman-station-official-guidebook/page/n30, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=102255098

    Today, the Roman fort and town has been partially excavated, about 25% is exposed – the rest is buried under the present town and therefore inaccessible. There is evidence of large granaries, an elaborate house for an official, and buildings that were probably temples. The ruins are in the care of English Heritage and can be visited year round. The attached museum contains some of the most important Roman collections in Britain including the “Corbridge Lion” which is thought to be the work of a master sculptor due to the intricate detail in the sculpture.

    Following the Romans leaving Britain in the 5th Century AD, other notable historic buildings in Corbridge are the parish church of Saint Andrew, thought to be have been consecrated in 676 AD, possibly by Saint Wilfred.

    There is also a fortified vicarage, one of only three in the country. The Vicar’s Pele (pronounced peel) is in the SE corner of the churchyard and has walls that are 4ft thick. The Pele Tower is a Grade 1 Listed building with National Monument Status, but is now a unique microbar selling quality craft ales and other drinks.

    Interior of the micropub in the Pele Tower

    For a small town, there is a lot for a history buff to take in and see. Of course, just walking around provides plenty to see – buildings throughout the town date from the late Tudor period to the Edwardian period, and as such the varied architecture has lots of visual interest, and elements to admire.

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  • My Picks from the Cumbria Life Awards Finalists

    My Picks from the Cumbria Life Awards Finalists

    It’s that time of year where the finalists from the Cumbria Life Awards have been announced. I’ve been through the nominees and pulled out just a few of my favourites. You can vote for your winners here. You only have until SUNDAY 10th AUGUST 2025 to submit your votes! These are just some of my top picks…

    Sandpipers, Arnside

    Nominated for Best Café or Coffee Shop 2025

    I go to Sandpipers a lot, probably at least once a week. It’s a beautiful café on the front at Arnside, overlooking the River Kent estuary and the viaduct. As their tagline goes: delightful views and bangin’ brews. They couldn’t be more right. The café is cosy and comfortable, and always has a friendly atmosphere. They’re also dog friendly, which a big plus for me, as I usually get to cuddle at least one dog when I go in there!

    My favourites from the menu vary depend on what mood I’m in, but a regular staple is the American-style pancakes with blueberries, greek yoghurt, and almond flakes, drizzled with honey. Yum! If I’m feeling a bit naughtier I’ll go for the bacon and maple syrup option with the pancakes instead. The pancakes are always fluffy, and there’s an ample helping, which always sets me up for the day ahead. I’d also recommend their sausage rolls when they’re warm from the oven, as they’re equally delicious. The coffee is great, and mum recently discovered they serve iced vanilla matcha (with oat milk or otherwise), which has recently become a favourite of hers.

    Holker Hall & Gardens, Cark-In-Cartmel

    Nominated for Best Tourist Attraction 2025

    I’m a frequent visitor to Holker Hall & Gardens. I love going there at different times throughout the year to see how the gardens have changed and evolved throughout the seasons. It’s brilliant to go in May when all of the rhododendrons are in bloom. Holker is famous for it’s rhododendrons, and if you wander around in May you can see why – the flowers are amazing, and the colours are beautiful. In late June/July the roses in the scented garden come out, and I love to sit and just take in the beautiful smell. Every year there is a different colour scheme in the scented garden and I love to see what they’ve planned.

    Of course Holker also has it’s Spring Fair (you can read about this year’s here), and the most popular Winter Market for Christmas Crafts and Street Food in Cumbria (I’ll be attending this later in the year!)

    RSPB Celebration Wood at Wild Haweswater

    Nominated for Fundraising Feat of the Year 2025

    The RSPB Celebration Wood at Wild Haweswater raised over £150k in order to expand an area of naturally temperate rainforest, to raise money for the RSPB’s restoration of Wild Haweswater, and to help residents and visitors reconnect with natural Cumbria. This was done by creating a “Celebration Wood,” which allowed visitors to plant a tree to celebrate an occasion, or to memorialise a loved one, whilst expanding on the edge of Naddle Forest.

    Rainforest and Cumbria aren’t two ideas that normally fit together in one’s mind, but in fact it is one of the last enclaves of “Celtic Rainforest” in the UK. This uniquely special habitat is absolutely teaming with life, including lichens, mosses, fungi, and ferns, not found anywhere else. At one time large swathes of the UK would have been covered by this rainforest, but much of it was cut down throughout the centuries to make room for grazing animals/providing materials. It is essential that what is left is protected, not just from human activity but from invasive species such as wild rhododendron which crowds out the native species.

    The other two nominees in the fundraising category also very much deserve mentions as extremely worthy causes. The first is Guide Over Sands Trust who bring 1000s of visitors to Morecambe Bay every year to walk across the sands with a trusted guide, sometimes running walks of up to 500 people at a time. The walks raise money for a variety of local causes. The other nominee in the category is the Kirkby Lonsdale Fire Disaster Recovery Appeal which was launched after a fire devastated parts of Kirkby Lonsdale in December 2024. The fund was established to provide aid for those who had experienced hardship because of the fire, with the entire community pulling together to support the town through the crisis.

    There are many many other worthy nominees this year in the awards and this list is in no way exhaustive, it’s simply some of my picks. Which are your favourites from the list? Where should I visit and feature next?

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  • Hideaway Huts in the Heart of the Roman World

    Hideaway Huts in the Heart of the Roman World

    The Romans left Britain in the 5th Century AD, but they left a legacy of ruins and artefacts behind for people in the sixteen centuries since to explore. One of the most enduring symbols of Roman Britain is the seventy-three mile long Hadrian’s Wall that stretches from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the East to Bowness-on-Solway on the West Coast. Built to be the literal and symbolic end of the Roman Empire (and also a defensive barrier to keep the Picts at bay), there is a lot to see and explore, especially towards the middle, in the rolling hills of rural Northumberland.

    Set less than three miles from the central mile fort on Hadrian’s Wall, close to what was formerly Sycamore Gap (and hopefully will be again soon when the new seedlings grow), you can find the beautifully situated Hideway Huts and Stable Cottage. I’ve been to the Huts and the cottage several times, and am always taken aback by how peaceful it is.

    There are three huts to choose from: The Bothy, The Shieling, and The Wainscot. All of the Hideaway Huts sleep two in either a king sized double, or two zip & link single beds, perfect for cosy weekends away, or even trips away by yourself to get some peace and quiet, and simply take in the surroundings. The cottage sleeps four and is suitable for children. The Wainscot has a walk in shower, whilst the other two, and the cottage, have shower-over-bath. They’re also equipped with full kitchen, a washing machine, wifi, and an outside porch. Sadly there are no dogs allowed inside the huts or the cottage.

    One of the things that really sets the Huts and Stable Cottage apart from some other places I’ve been is Helen, the owner, and the care she takes with the stays and the guests. The places are always immaculate, and there’s always a goodie basket of homemade goods, and food in the fridge. Last time we went there was eggs, bacon, bread, lemon drizzle cake, a bottle of mead, milk, butter, and homemade jam. It’s great because one thing I dislike when you go to some places like this, there is absolutely nothing, and often the place is quite a distance from the nearest shop, or you might have got there late, or it’s a Sunday etc. etc. So you struggle to even have a cup of tea without going out to try and find some milk. You never have that problem at Helen’s. There is always enough food and bits and pieces to tide you over to at least the following day when you can go out and get what you need.

    I have been to the huts with my mum, the cottage with both my parents, and also used a hut of my own for writing in the peace, whilst looking out over the pond and woodland that surrounds them. The pond is a fairly recent addition and has brought even more wildlife to the area in front of the huts, which is amazing for me as I could watch the birds and the wildlife for hours.

    One of the thing that strikes me every time I travel to this part of Northumberland is the dark skies at night. It is wonderful to be somewhere that, at night, actually gets really dark. We’re so used to light pollution being around that to be somewhere where it is truly dark, it’s amazing when there is none to disturb the dark, and let you sleep. When I’m at home, I have to sleep with an eye mask, to block out the light from street lamps streaming through my (supposed) black out blind. I like it dark when I sleep, and when I’m at Hideaway Huts I don’t need one. It’s beautiful. Of course, it also means that, when you go outside, you can really see the stars. One of my favourite memories of being there was lying out on one of the picnic tables at midnight in July, looking for all the different constellations that I could remember. Sometimes it’s wonderful just to sit and look at the stars.

    Outside of the huts, there is so much to do in the surrounding area. The incredible Vindolanda is less than a mile away. Vindolanda is the ongoing excavation of a huge Roman fort and surrounding town. In 1987 Vindolanda joined Hadrian’s Wall as part of the transnational “Frontiers of the Roman World” World Heritage Site. It truly is a magnificent site and museum to explore, and you can get a duel ticket for the site and the Roman Army Museum just down the road (where another enormous excavation called “Magna” has just begun). It is thought that only 27% of Vindolanda has been excavated, so by their own estimation, they could be excavating for another 150 years!

    Other things to do in the area are, of course, walking Hadrian’s Wall, trying fish & chips from the excellent chip shop in Haltwhistle, wandering the beautiful town of Corbridge, or going for a delicious lunch at the Rat Inn at Anick (who do the most amazing Chateaubriand (ordered by different weight) – I would definitely recommend!).

    If you’re heading up to this part of Northumberland, I would definitely recommend the Hideaway Huts as a bolt hole to stay and explore this beautiful part of world.

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