The North(ish) Lass

Explore the North.

Category: Travel

  • My Picks from the Cumbria Life Awards Finalists

    My Picks from the Cumbria Life Awards Finalists

    It’s that time of year where the finalists from the Cumbria Life Awards have been announced. I’ve been through the nominees and pulled out just a few of my favourites. You can vote for your winners here. You only have until SUNDAY 10th AUGUST 2025 to submit your votes! These are just some of my top picks…

    Sandpipers, Arnside

    Nominated for Best Café or Coffee Shop 2025

    I go to Sandpipers a lot, probably at least once a week. It’s a beautiful café on the front at Arnside, overlooking the River Kent estuary and the viaduct. As their tagline goes: delightful views and bangin’ brews. They couldn’t be more right. The café is cosy and comfortable, and always has a friendly atmosphere. They’re also dog friendly, which a big plus for me, as I usually get to cuddle at least one dog when I go in there!

    My favourites from the menu vary depend on what mood I’m in, but a regular staple is the American-style pancakes with blueberries, greek yoghurt, and almond flakes, drizzled with honey. Yum! If I’m feeling a bit naughtier I’ll go for the bacon and maple syrup option with the pancakes instead. The pancakes are always fluffy, and there’s an ample helping, which always sets me up for the day ahead. I’d also recommend their sausage rolls when they’re warm from the oven, as they’re equally delicious. The coffee is great, and mum recently discovered they serve iced vanilla matcha (with oat milk or otherwise), which has recently become a favourite of hers.

    Holker Hall & Gardens, Cark-In-Cartmel

    Nominated for Best Tourist Attraction 2025

    I’m a frequent visitor to Holker Hall & Gardens. I love going there at different times throughout the year to see how the gardens have changed and evolved throughout the seasons. It’s brilliant to go in May when all of the rhododendrons are in bloom. Holker is famous for it’s rhododendrons, and if you wander around in May you can see why – the flowers are amazing, and the colours are beautiful. In late June/July the roses in the scented garden come out, and I love to sit and just take in the beautiful smell. Every year there is a different colour scheme in the scented garden and I love to see what they’ve planned.

    Of course Holker also has it’s Spring Fair (you can read about this year’s here), and the most popular Winter Market for Christmas Crafts and Street Food in Cumbria (I’ll be attending this later in the year!)

    RSPB Celebration Wood at Wild Haweswater

    Nominated for Fundraising Feat of the Year 2025

    The RSPB Celebration Wood at Wild Haweswater raised over £150k in order to expand an area of naturally temperate rainforest, to raise money for the RSPB’s restoration of Wild Haweswater, and to help residents and visitors reconnect with natural Cumbria. This was done by creating a “Celebration Wood,” which allowed visitors to plant a tree to celebrate an occasion, or to memorialise a loved one, whilst expanding on the edge of Naddle Forest.

    Rainforest and Cumbria aren’t two ideas that normally fit together in one’s mind, but in fact it is one of the last enclaves of “Celtic Rainforest” in the UK. This uniquely special habitat is absolutely teaming with life, including lichens, mosses, fungi, and ferns, not found anywhere else. At one time large swathes of the UK would have been covered by this rainforest, but much of it was cut down throughout the centuries to make room for grazing animals/providing materials. It is essential that what is left is protected, not just from human activity but from invasive species such as wild rhododendron which crowds out the native species.

    The other two nominees in the fundraising category also very much deserve mentions as extremely worthy causes. The first is Guide Over Sands Trust who bring 1000s of visitors to Morecambe Bay every year to walk across the sands with a trusted guide, sometimes running walks of up to 500 people at a time. The walks raise money for a variety of local causes. The other nominee in the category is the Kirkby Lonsdale Fire Disaster Recovery Appeal which was launched after a fire devastated parts of Kirkby Lonsdale in December 2024. The fund was established to provide aid for those who had experienced hardship because of the fire, with the entire community pulling together to support the town through the crisis.

    There are many many other worthy nominees this year in the awards and this list is in no way exhaustive, it’s simply some of my picks. Which are your favourites from the list? Where should I visit and feature next?

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  • Hideaway Huts in the Heart of the Roman World

    Hideaway Huts in the Heart of the Roman World

    The Romans left Britain in the 5th Century AD, but they left a legacy of ruins and artefacts behind for people in the sixteen centuries since to explore. One of the most enduring symbols of Roman Britain is the seventy-three mile long Hadrian’s Wall that stretches from Wallsend on the River Tyne in the East to Bowness-on-Solway on the West Coast. Built to be the literal and symbolic end of the Roman Empire (and also a defensive barrier to keep the Picts at bay), there is a lot to see and explore, especially towards the middle, in the rolling hills of rural Northumberland.

    Set less than three miles from the central mile fort on Hadrian’s Wall, close to what was formerly Sycamore Gap (and hopefully will be again soon when the new seedlings grow), you can find the beautifully situated Hideway Huts and Stable Cottage. I’ve been to the Huts and the cottage several times, and am always taken aback by how peaceful it is.

    There are three huts to choose from: The Bothy, The Shieling, and The Wainscot. All of the Hideaway Huts sleep two in either a king sized double, or two zip & link single beds, perfect for cosy weekends away, or even trips away by yourself to get some peace and quiet, and simply take in the surroundings. The cottage sleeps four and is suitable for children. The Wainscot has a walk in shower, whilst the other two, and the cottage, have shower-over-bath. They’re also equipped with full kitchen, a washing machine, wifi, and an outside porch. Sadly there are no dogs allowed inside the huts or the cottage.

    One of the things that really sets the Huts and Stable Cottage apart from some other places I’ve been is Helen, the owner, and the care she takes with the stays and the guests. The places are always immaculate, and there’s always a goodie basket of homemade goods, and food in the fridge. Last time we went there was eggs, bacon, bread, lemon drizzle cake, a bottle of mead, milk, butter, and homemade jam. It’s great because one thing I dislike when you go to some places like this, there is absolutely nothing, and often the place is quite a distance from the nearest shop, or you might have got there late, or it’s a Sunday etc. etc. So you struggle to even have a cup of tea without going out to try and find some milk. You never have that problem at Helen’s. There is always enough food and bits and pieces to tide you over to at least the following day when you can go out and get what you need.

    I have been to the huts with my mum, the cottage with both my parents, and also used a hut of my own for writing in the peace, whilst looking out over the pond and woodland that surrounds them. The pond is a fairly recent addition and has brought even more wildlife to the area in front of the huts, which is amazing for me as I could watch the birds and the wildlife for hours.

    One of the thing that strikes me every time I travel to this part of Northumberland is the dark skies at night. It is wonderful to be somewhere that, at night, actually gets really dark. We’re so used to light pollution being around that to be somewhere where it is truly dark, it’s amazing when there is none to disturb the dark, and let you sleep. When I’m at home, I have to sleep with an eye mask, to block out the light from street lamps streaming through my (supposed) black out blind. I like it dark when I sleep, and when I’m at Hideaway Huts I don’t need one. It’s beautiful. Of course, it also means that, when you go outside, you can really see the stars. One of my favourite memories of being there was lying out on one of the picnic tables at midnight in July, looking for all the different constellations that I could remember. Sometimes it’s wonderful just to sit and look at the stars.

    Outside of the huts, there is so much to do in the surrounding area. The incredible Vindolanda is less than a mile away. Vindolanda is the ongoing excavation of a huge Roman fort and surrounding town. In 1987 Vindolanda joined Hadrian’s Wall as part of the transnational “Frontiers of the Roman World” World Heritage Site. It truly is a magnificent site and museum to explore, and you can get a duel ticket for the site and the Roman Army Museum just down the road (where another enormous excavation called “Magna” has just begun). It is thought that only 27% of Vindolanda has been excavated, so by their own estimation, they could be excavating for another 150 years!

    Other things to do in the area are, of course, walking Hadrian’s Wall, trying fish & chips from the excellent chip shop in Haltwhistle, wandering the beautiful town of Corbridge, or going for a delicious lunch at the Rat Inn at Anick (who do the most amazing Chateaubriand (ordered by different weight) – I would definitely recommend!).

    If you’re heading up to this part of Northumberland, I would definitely recommend the Hideaway Huts as a bolt hole to stay and explore this beautiful part of world.

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  • A Day In The Central Lakes

    A Day In The Central Lakes

    Last week, to make the most of the glorious weather we were having and the fact that it was supposed to be 26 degrees, I decided to head up to the Central Lake District for a day on Lake Windermere. As a general rule I would usually prefer to head up to the Northern and Western Lake District because the Central Lakes is just sooooooo busy, and it doesn’t really seem to have an “off” season, but it’s undeniable that it is exceedingly beautiful place (there’s a reason for all of those visitors!). I also spent a lot of time there as a child, spending weeks at a time in Ambleside staying with family friends. It was somewhat quieter then, but could still be pretty chaotic at times. Being in this beautiful place is a privilege, no matter how crowded it is, but if you do go up to Lake Windermere, do be prepared to deal with crowds, and also “captive market” prices. If it’s possible for you, I would recommend going outside of the UK school holidays, or during the week, as it might be slightly less crowded for you.

    “[The Lake District] has a permanent population of 40,000, but a temporary tourist population of more than 19 million.” – UNESCO

    Anyway, mum and I headed to Lakeside early. It’s about an hour’s drive from where we are, but in the middle of week and outside of school holidays the traffic wasn’t too bad. They must have known we were coming as there was a disabled space free just in front of the ticket booth, meaning mum didn’t have too far to walk (note: as the car park is privately owned, blue badge holders pay for parking).

    We bought two Freedom of the Lake tickets for a slightly discounted price as we bought them before 10.30am, and waited for the next boat. We’d decided we were going to go up to Ambleside for some lunch. The boat trip goes via Bowness on it’s way to Ambleside. Lakeside to Bowness takes about 35 minutes, and then Bowness to Ambleside is another 25 minutes after a short stop. If you stayed on board for the whole round trip Lakeside to Lakeside, it takes about three hours.

    There is a 10mph speed limit for boats on Lake Windermere, implemented in part to preserve the Lake District’s UNESCO World Heritage site status, and reduce the amount of noise pollution around the Lake (and also slightly ironic because, as anyone who knows the area can attest, the army/RAF frequently use the Lake District for flight path practice, dramatically increasing the noise levels!). The lake cruisers are beautiful vessels, fully equipped with comfortable seats both inside and out, toilets, and cafe & bar. It’s worth noting that the newer of the ships has a disabled bathroom on the main deck whereas in the two older ships (Swan & Tern), the bathrooms are down steep stairs.

    The English Lake District is the world’s largest World Heritage site, and has inspired poets, artists, and writers for centuries. The area was also instrumental in changing the way people relate to natural landscapes and their protection.

    It was gorgeous out on the Lake, and I definitely caught the sun. I was glad I had my sun cream on that day (although I wish I’d remembered my own hat)! It’s a bit deceptive because there’s often a nice breeze on the lake, and it can lull you into a false idea of how strong the sun actually is.

    Upon arriving at Ambleside we wandered up the busy quay to a little café for some lunch. It’s about a mile from the edge of the lake into Ambleside itself, which is too far for mum to walk, although there is a small shuttle bus that runs from the quay every so often if you do want to go. We decided not to go up to town, and instead stay by the water for a bite to eat, and catch a boat back after about an hour. We enjoyed some lunch, followed by a short walk up the quay, before getting back on the boat to Bowness.

    In Bowness we hopped off again to have an ice cream (some delicious English Lakes Ice Cream), whilst we waited for the boat back to Lakeside. The return journey down the West side of the Lake is really beautiful, as it’s the less developed side of the lake. Apparently the woodland found on the western shore is one of the largest continuous stretches of native woodland in England (which is both awesome and a little bit sad because it’s not really that large!). The western shore is more protected from development, but one of the things that is there is the largest YMCA centre in Europe, which runs youth activities such as canoeing, climbing, paddle-boarding, sailing etc. for more than 13,000 people a year.

    Lake Windermere and the surrounding area is stunningly beautiful, and the views from the Lake itself are unparalleled. If you head out in summer, remember your sunscreen, but the boats run 364 days a year and it’s a great trip to do on any clear day. I did it about a decade ago when there was snow on the mountaintops, and whilst I had to wrap up against the elements, the vistas were gorgeous. You can buy tickets for Lake District cruises on the Windermere Cruises website.

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  • Welcome to Cartmel

    Welcome to Cartmel

    Famous for it’s racecourse, fine dining, and of course, its Sticky Toffee Pudding, this little village on the edge of the Lake District is punching well above it’s weight when it comes to things to see and do, as well as being in a gorgeous natural location. I often like to go to Cartmel when I’ve been to Holker Hall (which is just down the road), to have a wander around the independent shops and cafes, or to have a moment’s quiet in the priory before enjoying an ice cream.

    On a logistical note, when there race days are scheduled Cartmel gets very busy, and even on regular days parking is a bit of a struggle. If you’re very lucky, you might get parked in the middle of the village, but it is very limited. As a general rule, parking is on the racecourse, and visitors then walk into the village.

    So, without further ado, here’s my things to do in Cartmel…

    Visit The Priory

    Cartmel Priory is over eight hundred years old. It was founded by William Marshal (sometimes known by the moniker of “The Greatest Knight”) in 1190 following his return from Crusade in the Holy Land. He gifted the land around the Priory to the monks situated there to provide for it’s upkeep.

    One of the interesting things found in Cartmel Priory, despite them being installed at a later date, is some of the stained glass windows on the left hand side of the nave clearly make reference to Islamic style architecture, depicting a building akin to the Hagia Sofia. Whoever commissioned or made these windows must have either seen, or being inspired by, Near-Eastern architecture, as the image is unlike any building found in England at that time.

    There are a couple of other curiosities to find in the Priory if you visit. Can you find them? Have a bit of a treasure hunt with the following list!

    • The gravestone with a “pirate ship-esque” skull-and-cross-bones inlaid on the surface.
    • The musket shot holes, in the outside of one of the doors, supposedly fired by angry Parliamentarians during the civil war of the 17th century, when they were denied entry to The Priory for provisions.
    • The knight’s tomb with the faded medieval image painted on the underside of the ceiling of the tomb (you have to crane your neck to see this one, this might give you a clue!).
    • The “Anglo-Saxon” cross in the graveyard, which is a monument to those who served during WW1.
    • The 16th century wooden misericords complete with 16th century graffiti carved in, assumedly left there by a bored choir boy centuries ago.

    Have a pint in the Cavendish Arms

    The Cavendish Arms sits next to the River Eea (how do you pronounce that? I tend to just go with “Uhhh” which is definitely not right!), and is a lovely spot to sit and have a drink on a warm summer’s day, and watch the water flow.

    Personal aside – my grandfather had his retirement meal at the Cavendish Arms, back in the 1980s – as a joke his colleagues ordered him two of everything on the meat platter – two tomahawks, two racks of ribs, two sausages etc. etc. Not one to back down from a challenge, my grandad gamely ate it all. He thought it would be rude not too.

    Now I wouldn’t try anything close to that, but the food at the pub is delicious, and a lovely place to sit and enjoy the day.

    Check out the Independent Shops

    Cartmel boasts several lovely independent shops, including a Vintage store (my favourite!), Unsworth Yard (a deli/wine shop/brewery), an antiquarian bookstore, and the Larch Tree (a gift/clothing/toy store).

    I love going for a mooch around the Vintage store, because there’s some truly interesting things in there. It’s not just for vintage and preloved clothing, there’s also home goods, toys, antiques, and furniture, all higgledy-piggledy to have a rummage through and see what treasures can be found. In the past I’ve bought earrings and a 1940s dress from the store, and continue to love and use both!

    Unsworth Yard deli does a lovely selection of local produce, including stocking all of the products of Cartmel Cheeses. Last time I was in there, a friend of mine bought some lovely relishes and sauces as a present.

    Have an Ice Cream at Hales of Cartmel

    Claiming to have the “largest selection of scooping ice creams,” Hales of Cartmel certainly has plenty of different flavours to choose from. Last time I went, I had a double scoop of salted caramel and peach melba… delicious!

    However will you choose?!

    You’ll notice – conspicuous by its absence – I haven’t mentioned L’Enclume or Rogan & Co. That isn’t for any reason other than that I’m going to do a separate post about the fine dining options in Cartmel.

    What’s your favourite thing about Cartmel? Have you visited the beautiful village? What did you get up to?

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  • A Week In Northumberland (Part Three)

    A Week In Northumberland (Part Three)

    Last one I promise! You can read Part One, Two, and the extra bit about the trip to the Farne Islands, respectively…

    On the day before heading back to Lancashire, dad and I decided to visit Lindisfarne, perhaps better known as Holy Island, a tidal island just off the cost of Northumberland. The island is managed and maintained by the National Trust. I’d always been a bit nervy about visiting Holy Island before because of the high tide cutting the island off twice a day; I’ve always had a fear of being trapped anywhere, and I don’t know, I guess I just imagined being stuck on the causeway as the tide rushed in. I also (for some bananas reason) imagined that the causeway over to the island was literally driving on the sand, and there was the potential to get stuck in it – my brain hadn’t computed it was actually a tarmac road. I guess, living near Morecambe Bay, I’d imagined something more bonkers like trying to 4×4 it from Arnside to Grange-Over-Sands, dodging quicksand as you went.

    Causeway from Holy Island to the mainland

    Anyway, we checked the tide times, something you must do if you plan to visit Holy Island, and noted that the safe crossing time was between 9am – 3.30pm. Perfect. We drove up the A1 to the turn-off (it’s only about a 30 minute drive from Seahouses), and headed out over the causeway. There’s also a walking route for those who wish to walk over to the island (it’s a pilgrimage route for those who are interested in that sort of thing), although I imagine the safe crossing times are probably a shorter window for walkers, as it would take you a bit longer to get out of the way of the oncoming tide. Despite all the warnings about the crossing, about one vehicle a month gets stuck on the causeway, meaning a rescue has to be launched by the RNLI/HM Coastguard, which reportedly costs about £3,500 per rescue.

    Once reaching the main island, because my parents are blue badge holders, we were able to drive up into the small village in order to park. Other cars have to park a little way outside of the settlement in order to protect it from the problems associated with lots of vehicles/pollution, and walk into the village. One thing I did find surprising about Lindisfarne was that it was bigger than I expected. I had imagined the ruins of the priory, a museum, and maybe a collection of houses with a café. In fact there was quite a thriving community – there’s a sixteenth century castle out on the peninsula (quite a walk), the priory ruins with museum, along with another museum about the history of the island, several cafes, a few pubs, shops, a hotel, a gelato seller, and lots of houses – some of which have permanent residents, others of which are holiday lets.

    The island was very busy, given that it was crossing time, but I could imagine during the off times twice a day, and at night, it would be extremely peaceful out there. The only downside out there, other than a tiny one, is that there’s no food shop, as such, so you better get your food before you cross otherwise you’re a bit stuck (for half a day). In the few hours we were there, we wandered around the quaint little streets, stopped off in a nice cafe which had some extremely friendly birdlife (at one point it felt like I was having to fight the sparrows for the rights to my sausage roll), and had a look in the museum before looking in the priory, which is looked after by English Heritage.

    A friendly sparrow after the remnants of my sausage roll

    I was a little bit disappointed with the priory information, I was hoping for more detail about the Viking raids of the 8th & 9th century, particularly the first one; what happened, how it unfolded, the reasons behind it etc. etc., instead the information was more focused on monastic life, and the lives of St Cuthbert and St Aiden (the reason why the island is called Holy Island btw). Which, cool, I guess, but I’ve never really been a huge nerd for monastic history. It has its moments, I suppose.

    What Lindisfarne is most famous for, is the Lindisfarne Gospels, which these days can be found in the British Library. They do occasionally make the trip back to Lindisfarne to be displayed in the museum there, but rarely, so if it’s those you want to see – the British Library is a much safer bet. The gospels themselves are absolutely stunning – pictured below is the front page of the Gospel according to Luke. There were produced in the early 8th century, a presumed to be the work of a monk named Eadfrith, who became bishop of Lindisfarne. It is postulated that the gospels were created in honour of St Cuthbert, and they are considered to be one of the greatest surviving examples of Hiberno-Saxon work.

    The Viking raid on the island in 793 is often considered the “beginning” of the Viking Age, and shockwaves rippled through the Christian West following the attack. There had been other raids before, but this one was more shocking as it hit at the “cradle of Christianity” in the Kingdom of Northumbria, where many saints relics were held. It was widely believed that God had sent the Vikings as punishment for perceived sins of Christians.

    “Never before has such terror appeared in Britain as we have now suffered from a pagan race … The heathens poured out the blood of saints around the altar, and trampled on the bodies of saints in the temple of God…” – Alcuin, Chronicler.

    There were several more attacks into the mid 9th century, causing the priory to be abandoned. The surviving monks took the relics of St Cuthbert and St Aidan to Durham Cathedral. Following the Norman Invasion of Britain in 1066 and the cessation of Viking Raids, monks returned to the island, rebuilding and reinstating the relics. The priory operated until the Dissolution of the Monasteries under Henry VIII in 1536, when it was permanently closed and stripped of it’s assets, many of which were sold.

    The ruins of Lindisfarne Priory

    I have to admit, Anglo-Saxon history is a period of history I don’t know a huge amount about. I studied monastic history and the hagiography of saints, as one of my modules for a term when I was at university, but that was about it. I always keen to learn more, so whilst I was in the English Heritage shop, I bought a book ‘Anglo Saxons’ by Marc Morris, and look forward to reading it to learn more about this interesting and unstable period in British History.

    Anyway, back to the present day, and after nearly getting blown away on the beach, dad and I headed back across the causeway and for Seahouses.

    We headed home the next day, after a wonderful week away. I really love that coastline – it’s rugged, beautiful, the beaches are clean with soft sand, there’s lots of wildlife, and plenty to do when the weather is fine like we had it. We’ve been up there several times, and positive we’ll head back again in the future. We have to, I’ve yet to see Dolphins in the North Sea and that’s one of my bucket list things to do!

  • A Week In North Northumberland (Part Two)

    A Week In North Northumberland (Part Two)

    You can read about the first part of my trip to North Northumberland here.

    The following day, we headed back to Bamburgh Walled Garden Café for a full breakfast. I had the “small” breakfast, and despite the moniker it was more than enough for me! It’s quite pricey in here for breakfast, and for three of us the bill was close to £60, but the produce is all from local suppliers, cooked fresh and the restaurant is in a lovely setting. The whole area has recently been renovated with outdoor seating and a large kids play area (outside), so I imagine in the school holidays it will be extremely popular with families.

    Interior of Bamburgh Walled Garden Café

    After breakfast I decided I was going to walk from Bamburgh to Seahouses along the beach. I’ve done this walk before in the winter on a glorious December day, but decided that doing it again in May would be equally as nice. It was a “warm” (highs of 20 degrees according to my weather app) day so I was wearing shorts, but I still needed a 3/4 sleeve t-shirt on to protect my shoulders against the somewhat chilly breeze coming off the sea – it would have been quite cold to do it in a sleeveless top! It’s one of the things I always find amusing at this time of year in the UK; nobody really knows how to dress (and that’s not a criticism!) – some people you see in May, when the sun’s shining, in shorts and strappy t-shirts, others are still wearing their duvet coats!

    Anyway, clothing aside, it is a stunning walk down the sands from Bamburgh to Seahouses – a distance of about 7km/3.5 miles. It’s a bit challenging at the start, walking up the soft sanded dunes, but once you’re on the flat beach (especially if the tide is out and can walk on the firm, damp, sand) then it’s easy going. Whilst walking I took the time to have a look in some of the many rockpools – the tide was on the turn, so probably not the best time, as they’d been exposed for some hours, and anything that hadn’t hidden away had probably been picked off by the sea birds. I did see some sea anemones, and plenty of cool and colourful sea weed, but not a huge amount of critters. The best time to go rock-pooling would be a couple of hours after high tide; you can find out more information about how to get the best out of going rock-pooling from The Rock Pool Project website. The walk (done at a very relaxed pace) took me about two hours.

    Beautiful Bamburgh Beach

    Often beaches are inaccessible to those with mobility issues because their mobility aids cannot go on sand. In Bamburgh, however, a new project by Beach Access North East and Bamburgh Parish Council has brought beach-ready wheelchairs to Bamburgh beach available to book/loan. You can read about the different chairs available and how to hire them here.

    Following day, mum and I headed to Alnwick Garden. It was a bit of a palaver, which is a shame because Alnwick Castle & Garden is a great tourist attraction and has lots of things to do. The palaver occurred because we’d booked an electric scooter to help her get around and it wasn’t there when we arrived. It turned out there’d been some crossed-wires and there wasn’t one available, so we ended up having to take a wheelchair and I had to push her around. I was quite happy to do this, but seeing as Alnwick garden has quite a few uphill paths, it was a bit more exercise than I’d been anticipating that morning! Anyway, it was nice to amble around, although the beautiful sensory gardens weren’t quite out yet (June/July would be the best time to visit for this). The top garden with Alhambra-esque water features was lovely, with blooming lilac, clematis, a few tulips, and a wonderful trailing wisteria over the gateway.

    Wisteria in the garden at Alnwick Gardens

    I then went into Alnwick to go and have a mooch around The Accidental Bookshop (part of Forum Books, started in Corbridge), whilst mum went to have a coffee in Northern Angels – a new coffeeshop and lifestyle shop that celebrates the contribution of amazing women from across the North, as well as promoting sustainable living. Definitely worth a visit when in Alnwick!

    Stay tuned for Part Three for the last update about my trip to North Northumberland…

  • A Week In North Northumberland (Part One)

    A Week In North Northumberland (Part One)

    Head North. A bit further… a bit further… bit further… there you go. I’m spending a week in North Northumberland, about as far north as you can go in England before you hit Scotland. The weather has been absolutely delightful; wall-to-wall sunshine, but not too hot, making it perfect for wandering about.

    First things first we’re staying right on the harbour in the village of Seahouses for a week, checking in on a Friday through to the following Friday. This is a working harbour, and sitting on the balcony watching the boats go in and out, and the fishermen sort their pots, nets, and catches is certainly a way to while away a moment with a cup of tea in the mornings.

    Seahouses Harbour from the Pier

    Following that, there are plenty of options for breakfast both here in Seahouses, and also just up the road in Bamburgh, where the imposing Bamburgh Castle overlooks the village and the beach from it’s clifftop situation. We headed to the newly opened Bamburgh Walled Garden Café for a coffee and a scone on Saturday morning because, not knowing how popular it is, we hadn’t booked for the first morning we were there, and couldn’t get a table inside where they serve hot food (no hot food is served outside, only cakes/pastries etc.). Learning this we booked a table for the following day, in order to have breakfast the following day. After breakfast I went to Carter’s a family run butcher’s shop in Bamburgh, which does the most amazing meats and pies. I’m planning to stock up on lots of pies for the freezer at home before we head home because they are seriously that delicious.

    After breakfast we decided to head down the coastal route and see what we could find. Initially, mum thought we might head for Alnmouth, but we got side-tracked on the way by signs for Howick Hall & Gardens. I’d seen signs before when we’d been up here, but we’d never investigated before. This time we did, and discovered a delightful privately owned hall and gardens that had once belong to the 2nd Earl Grey (he of the tea fame). He’d done a few things quite a bit more politically impressive in his time, such as being the Prime Minister that saw through the Reform Act (that paved the way for democracy as we know it today in the UK) and the Abolition of Slavery throughout the British Empire, but it is probably for the blend of tea with bergamot that takes his name for which he is most famous. Ironically, the Grey family did not file a patent for the name of the tea, and made absolutely no royalties for it once Twinings (and others) took the blend worldwide and sold however many millions of lbs of it have been sold since.

    Howick Hall

    The Hall was beautiful with lots of information about the gardens inside. The gardens themselves have been under development by the various owners of the Hall for well over two centuries, including an extensive arboretum that is divided into different areas depending on the geographical location that the trees originate from. There’s also a Sensory Garden, the Bog Garden (which is so called because it had always been a boggy area of the garden until it was dug out into a pond in the early 90s and planted with lots of shrubs and flowers), as well as a Rockery, Lady Howick’s Private Garden (which is only open on select days), and a lovely river running through the lower garden by the church with a path meandering alongside.

    Silverwood Walk

    It was lovely to wander around and listen to the birdsong of blackbirds, blue tits, starlings etc. I also saw a woodpecker, which is a bit of a rare spot. One of the things I love about places like this is that even though it was fairly busy (judging by the car park), but wandering around the gardens you wouldn’t know it because it was so peaceful.

    After Howick, we headed back up the coast to Beadnell to enjoy an ice cream on the beach. I also dipped my toes in the water because it was such a beautiful day, and I can’t head to the beach on a day like that and not have a paddle! It was pretty cold, but still lovely to wade whilst enjoying my ice cream.

    A perfect start to a great week!

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  • Visiting the Spring Fair @ Holker Hall

    Visiting the Spring Fair @ Holker Hall

    On May Bank Holiday, Holker Hall held it’s annual Spring Fair and Festival, and yours truly went along for the third year in a row to check it out.

    The weather was beautiful; sunny but not overly hot, with a slight breeze. Perfect for wandering around looking at artisan products, food, and crafts from local businesses. It also made it perfect weather for lots and lots of doggies to be around – my favourite! (Note to readers: I am absolutely dog mad, and will pet dogs wherever I see them. To be honest, I’m absolutely creature/animal mad – I will pet anything vaguely cute and fluffy; will never kill bugs or spiders; am in awe of all wildlife… I’ll even try and gently waft wasps outside, despite the fact they scare me!).

    Upon arriving we parked in the disabled parking area (my mum has access needs and is a blue badge holder), and headed up the hill towards the fair. I bought us both a coffee from a stall before we had a noodle around the stalls. There were local artisans and craft stalls, such as Gazelle Crafts (Making Your Garden Wildlife Friendly), The Zero Pantry (Serving daily needs, plastic free), The Wilde Bakery (flapjack makers from Bare), and Northern Baked (Cakes, scones, pastries etc.). There was also representation from various charities associated with nature and animals, such as the RSPB, The Woodland Trust, and the Wildlife Trust.

    Stalls at the Spring Fair

    As well as seeing the stalls and the artisans who had come along, I also went for a walk around the Hall & Gardens itself. I come to Holker Hall regularly, and there’s always something to see whatever time of the year. In Spring, the Gardens are famed for their rhododendrons and azaleas, as well as the wildflower areas specifically left to create havens for bees, insects, and other wildlife. I’ll be doing more posts about what to see at Holker Hall in the future. Holker also have other events running throughout the year – you can check out their ‘What’s On‘ page to see what’s coming up.

    Beautiful black lab called Winston in the wildflower meadow

    ^ P.S – this was Winston, a 10 yr old Black Labrador that I just had to feature because he looked so gentlemanly and majestic standing in the wildflower meadow. He was a such a sweet boy and I gave him a big cuddle after he posed so nicely for a photograph.

  • Things To Do In Lancaster (In A Day)

    Things To Do In Lancaster (In A Day)

    A Morning in Lancaster

    Start off the morning by having breakfast in one of our many independent cafes, which you can read more about in my ‘Cafe Culture in Lancaster‘ series.

    Follow up the lovely breakfast by going for a tour of Lancaster Castle. This will need to be prebooked as the tour is guided, in small groups, by a knowledgeable tour guide. The castle has a history dating from the high medieval period right through to the present day (it ceased to be a HM Prison in 2011). Following that you can have a look around the Priory that is adjacent to the castle or have a wander down the hill towards the river to look at the ruins of the Roman Baths. There’s not a huge amount left of the ancient monument there, but it’s interesting to see evidence of just how long humans have been settled and building on the banks of the River Lune.

    Front Gate of Lancaster Castle

    If you need (or want) lunch after all of that, there are many pubs and eateries to choose from in Lancaster. I will be doing an article in the coming weeks about some of the pubs that can be found in the city, so keep your eyes peeled for that. Off the top of my head, I would suggest The Sun, the Three Mariners, Merchants 1666, or the Water Witch, which all do excellent pub food.

    Afternoon in Lancaster

    In the afternoon, depending on where your interests lie there are several different options. If you want to continue in the history theme of things, I suggest having a wander around Lancaster Museum, found in the middle of the market square. This fascinating museum takes you through the history of the region and the city from the earliest human occupation to the present day, including the links to the Wars of the Roses, the Witch Trials (the first convictions for witchcraft in the seventeenth century occurred in Lancaster), and the oft-glossed over involvement of the city in the English Slave Trade. For more information on the latter, a visit to the Lancaster Maritime Museum is also on the cards.

    Ashton Memorial

    If, however, you’ve been historied out by the visit to the castle in the morning, I suggest a visit to Williamson Park, the lovely open space to be found at the top of the city, with the in-situ Ashton Memorial looking out over the city and surrounding countryside in all direction. In the park you can also find a wildlife park and butterfly house, with lots of interesting critters and creatures to take a look at. If fauna isn’t necessarily your thing, then a wander around the park and surrounding woodland is a relaxing way to pass the time on a nice day, although it is worth being aware that the park and surrounding area is fairly hilly, and whilst it is accessible to wheelchairs and motorised scooters, those with ambulatory difficulties without aid might struggle a little, depending on conditions. If you’re up at the park as the sun begins to go down, you’re in for a treat, watching the sunset over Morecambe Bay with the Lake District Hills in the distance, a beautiful location to the end the day.

    Lancaster itself sits on the main West Coast trainline, so as your day comes to an end there are plenty of trains to take you either North or South, depending on where you want to go next. The city is also adjacent to junction 34 of the M6 motorway, so is easily accessible by car.

  • Spring Fair @ Holker Hall

    Spring Fair @ Holker Hall

    I’m heading to Holker Hall this weekend to go to their Spring Fair. I’ve been a couple of years in a row now and it’s always been great – it’s also the “dog show” weekend, which might have something to do with why it’s so awesome – I get to be around a load of puppies!

    There’s going to be a lot going on:

    • talks and gardening advice
    • live demonstrations
    • expert and entertaining guest speakers
    • live music, street food, outdoor licensed bars
    • a fantastic range of shopping opportunities

    We’re going down on Saturday, so I’m excited to see talks about local food culture from Simon Rogan’s Head Chef, and the history of Holker Hall’s Gardens from Lord Cavendish.

    I’ll be doing a full write up next week!