Features: Outside seating, dog friendly, excellent for breakfast.
Price: ££
Address: Tithebarn Hill, Glasson Dock, Lancaster LA2 0BY
The Quayside at Glasson Dock is a charming little café on the side of the marina and lock at Glasson Dock. The café stands next to a little village shop and the famous Port of Lancaster Smokehouse Shop and has indoor and outdoor spaces to sit and eat. It is very popular on the weekend, especially with motorbike riders, cyclists, and other out-and-abouters. Once you get a load of the food you will understand why. Not only are the portion sizes for the breakfasts extremely generous, the food is also delicious. It’s all cooked from scratch (so at busier times it might take a little bit longer to get to you), but it’s well worth the wait.
My favourite is a Potato Cake Stack which is a potato pancake, black pudding (your choice whether you have this deep-fried or not, just to make it extra unhealthy!), poached egg, extra bacon if you want it, and another potato pancake on the bottom. This then comes with a little bit of sweet chilli jam, and hollandaise sauce (I choose to have it without the hollandaise as I’ve never really been a fan). It is delicious. I’ve had it so often in there that now when I sit down Nina (the owner) knows exactly what I want and how I like (right down to the crispy bacon (can’t be doing with flubby bacon – yuck!)). Mum sometimes has a Small Breakfast when we come down here, but often just has a very tasty (and very generous) bacon roll.
Subscribe below for more local recommendations, and exciting information about people and places across the North.
The café is dog friendly, both inside and out, so your pooches can come along for some breakfast or lunch with you. The café also does Fish & Chips on a Friday night which I am going to try sometime soon! The venue has also started branching out into one-off evenings (for example, they hosted an Indian Night in July), so keep an eye out for information about events and collaborations.
After you’ve finished breakfast, you can go for a wander down the quayside and have a look in the Lancaster Smokehouse shop, which as the name suggests has products from the actual smoke house found just down the road; everything from smoked haddock, to chicken, to cheese. There are also lots of other delicious things to be found in there like the famous Morecambe Bay Potted Shrimp in brown butter. I’m particularly partial to their conserves and jams, as well as their sweets and snack selection (they did some amazing salted caramel popcorn at Christmas last year that was soooo moreish – I had to stop myself from buying bags and bags of it! Luckily it was seasonal, so I can’t get hold of it at the moment…).
Whilst the great British pub might be under threat (some 400 closed in 2024), of the 39,000 remaining, it seems like several of the really good ones can be found in Lancaster. In this piece, Alex Candlin explores some of his favourite Lancaster watering holes…
One of the many unassailable rights afforded to Brits — alongside queueing and mild, persistent weather complaints—is the sacred entitlement to a proper pint: drawn with reverence, served without fuss, and consumed like it might be your last.
If you should find yourself in Lancaster — an estimable place with plenty of character packed into it’s historic cobblestones — you’ll face not the problem of scarcity, but the frankly Herculean task of choosing from an array of establishments, each making a compelling claim to serve the best beer this side of the Tweed.
Louis XIV may have fancied himself the Sun King, imagining the whole of France revolved around his powdered dome and ornamental trousers, delusions of grandeur, certainly, but in Lancaster there’s no confusion: The Sun Inn reigns supreme, and with considerably more justification.
The Sun Inn bar, with a range from Lancaster Brewery
It’s less a public house and more a civic cornerstone—a warm, golden-lit beacon to the weary, the thirsty, and the mildly overdramatic (I would know). I’ve conducted extensive fieldwork within its storied walls (in the interest of public knowledge, of course) and can confirm that it pours the full arsenal of Lancaster Brewery’s finest. These are ales of such calibre they could coax a blush from a cavalry officer, whiskies smoother than a politician’s promise, and lagers so sharp they’ve been known to revive the conversationally comatose.
Insert by Bryony (hello!): There are also notes of historic interest within the walls of The Sun Inn (Alex: this post was meant to be free of nerdiness), such as the Roman well that you can see underneath the floor, protected by a layer of thick glass. There is, of course, the slightly erroneous plaque on the wall that claims that some of the floorboards and/or panelling that make up the pub came from a “17th century ship used in the battle against the Spanish Armada”… now, this is either a typo or a bit of a fib, seeing as the Spanish Armada sailed into British waters in 1588, quite comfortable in the 16th Century. Ah well, it’s a nice urban legend, either way…
(Alex: That’s better, I’ve got my article back) If your plan is to drink well and face the consequences cheerfully, there are few finer places to lay down your tab. Many a pleasant evening has been spent in The Sun before gently ambling down the cobbled street opposite towards the bus station to catch the last bus home.
Bryony again: (Alex: Oh, for God’s sake) – The Sun Inn also does some pretty great food, some of the best “pub food” I’ve had in Lancaster. They also do sharing platters, which are great to split between friends while indulging from behind the bar. Bryony, out.
Strategically entrenched beneath Lancaster Castle—an ideal fallback should the evening take an ill-advised turn—The Merchants 1688 is the sort of pub that feels both defensible and deeply drinkable. A subterranean stronghold of stone and candlelight, it’s part wine-cellar, part drinking den, and entirely ideal for either a rendezvous or a strategic retreat.
Its location near the station makes it a natural first or last stop for any campaigner braving the railways. Inside, the beer list is a tactical triumph: rotating cask ales, precise lagers, and brooding stouts strong enough to give even the most seasoned drinker a moment’s pause. If you like your beverages full-bodied and your exit strategy clear, this is your pub.
Bryony: I’ve also seen it used as the setting for an amateur play. A production of Journey’s End was performed here, using the barrel cellars to great effect as stand-ins for the underground feel of WW1 Trenches. Of course, the pub in it’s clean, uplit, and delightfully warm self, is nothing like a trench in reality, but it was quite clever to use the space this way.
It’s proven ground for social manoeuvres: I once launched a first date there that didn’t immediately dissolve into awkward silences and desperate glances at the door—a diplomatic miracle on par with the Treaty of Utrecht. And then there was the pub quiz: five pints in, fifty quid out. Not a bad night’s work for a man who can barely spell “Trafalgar.”
Every musician needs a stage, and every ale-seeker needs a haunt with just the right blend of chaos and charm. Enter Ye Olde John O’ Gaunt, a venerable tavern that doubles (sometimes) as Lancaster’s unofficial concert hall, confession booth, and living room.
Step inside and take your chances. It might be a raucous evening of foot-stomping folk tunes, where the ceiling trembles and the fiddles fly—or it might be a quiet night of murmured stories and pints gently kissed by the firelight. It’s a coin toss, really, but either way, you win.
The interior is long, narrow, and seasoned with age, like the barrel of a fine musket or the hallway of a ship about to be boarded. Acoustics are lively, proximity is guaranteed, and conversation flows as freely as the taps.
Speaking of which—the beer. There’s always a strong cast of real ales, with guest appearances from local brewers and just enough craft oddities to keep hop-forward types entertained. Whether you’re in the mood for something hoppy, roasty, or brewed by modern-day monks in an Alpine garage (probably), they’ve got you covered.
Food-wise, it’s honest fare—no frills, no nonsense, just something hot and satisfying to keep your second pint from ambushing your dignity. Pies, toasties, and the occasional rogue special. You won’t find foie gras, but you will find something that won’t let you down.
A cornerstone of Lancaster’s boozy ecosystem, Ye Olde John O’ Gaunt is as much a part of the town’s identity as rain and student loans. Whether you’re here for a spontaneous gig, a solitary moment with your pint, or a late-night laugh with old friends, it delivers exactly what you didn’t know you needed.
Until next time, and further exploration of my favourite places for excellent beer;
Following on from last week’s post: Café Culture in Lancaster: Part One, this week it’s time for Part Two where I will look at four more independent (or smaller) coffee shops/cafés in Lancaster. The same pricing scale from last week still applies.
Journey Social
Features: Excellent Menu
Price: £££
Journey Social is a lovely café/restaurant to be found just behind the library in the town square. With a diverse menu and excellent coffee, it’s a great place to go for breakfast, brunch, or lunch, but you will need to take your appetites – plates are (in my experience!) quite large! Also be prepared to pay that little bit more for the great ingredients and the from-scratch cooking. Journey Social is one of the more expensive on this list, but definitely worth it as a treat or a special breakfast out. I particularly like the avocado and pea puree they add to various dishes, and from the cake display I’m a fan of their pastel del nata.
Holm
Features: Scandinavian Cuisine, Great Cakes (Fika!)
Price: £
A small café that is now looking to expand because it’s done so well, Holm is a café/bakery that specialises in Scandinavian food and fika. Fika is the Swedish name for cake and a hot drink taken in the afternoon, and Holm offers a deal on this Swedish tradition. The café is also in a moment of exciting expansion, as they’re about to expand to the empty shop next door, taking their capacity up from only three tables, to quite a few more!
Last time I was there, mum had a dish with Salmon, pickled cucumber, rocket, cream cheese, and dill, with a lemon flavour. She enjoyed it, but she did say the portion was very large (she has quite a small appetite!). I had a bagel with cheese and salami.
They also home bake all their cakes, and we took home a tart with berries and crème anglaise, which was delicious with a cup of tea later that afternoon!
Atkinson’s Coffee House
Features: Great Coffee (own blend), Social Tables/Space, Dog Friendly
Price: ££
Atkinson’s has been coffee blenders and tea sellers in Lancaster for nearly two hundred years. Thomas Atkinson opened his tea warehouse in Lancaster in 1837, at which time his shop was one of six.
There are also three different locations of Atkinson’s in Lancaster. There’s The Hall, which is the original café next to the coffee roasting shop; The Music Room on Sun Street; and The Castle Courtyard which can be found (unsurprisingly) in Lancaster Castle Courtyard. The Hall is a huge space on the main road heading towards Sainsburys out of town with smaller tables to work at, or bigger communal tables for chatting with friends or other coffee lovers. I like going into the hall and seeing all the coffee making experiments that they have going on – it looks like an alchemist’s lab in there!
The Music Room is a smaller venue with an outdoor courtyard space which is gorgeous to sit in the spring and summer. The Castle Courtyard is a lovely café in an amazing historical location, but it’s worth noting that whilst it is all flat or ramped, it is a bit of a trek from the road up to the castle and it might be a challenge to someone with accessibility issues.
The Storey
Features: Social Space/Laptop Space, Garden Seating
Price: £
The Storey is a council owned building dedicated to the arts and learning. There are always exhibitions, classes, workshops, and other things going on within the building. There is also a little accessible café space with plenty of comfortable seating and tables for either enjoying a coffee with friends, or plugging in a laptop and catching up on some work. My old singing teacher used to have a classroom and singing space in the Storey, so I would often have a coffee and cake before going to my lesson. There is a little courtyard area where I sometimes sat outside in the late afternoon sunshine in the spring and summer.
The Storey Gardens are also worth a visit, perhaps with a takeaway coffee. The Gardens are perhaps one of Lancaster’s best kept secrets, and beautiful to take a walk around. I’ll be doing a whole piece about the Storey Gardens and the history of the place at a later date.
Over the last decade or so, Lancaster has developed a wonderful independent coffeeshop scene, giving any punter a lot of options to choose from when seeking out an excellent cup of coffee, or a good ol’ brew. In this blog I’ll be exploring some of my favourite places to have a coffee, a spot of breakfast or lunch, or just to chill and relax in Lancaster for an hour or two. This list does not include any big brand coffee shops, not for any particularly hipster reasons, but because I believe that they get enough exposure as it is!
A note on pricing: I have used £-£££ to mark out whether I think a place is towards the cheaper (£) or more expensive (£££) end of the pricing points. I hasten to add this is subjective and only based roughly around a particular scale.
Where you can get a drink and a meal for around £10, I have marked it as £.
Where a drink and meal will cost between £15-20, I have marked it as ££.
For places where it will cost £25+pp by the time you’ve finished up brunch/lunch, I’ve marked it as £££.
In all of these places there are options that will be cheaper or more expensive, and these pricing marks are just a general guide.
Brew
Features: Dog Friendly, Excellent for Brunch
Price: ££
Address: 18A Brock Street, Lancaster
I go to Brew a lot. A little café found next to Sultan’s on Brock St.. Seating is limited and often involves having to queue for a little while outside in order to get a seat (the fact that there is often a queue highlights just how popular it is!).
The shop itself only has tables that seat up to four, and you can’t book. It’s ideal for intimate groups and a chin wag with friends, rather than for large groups. There’s also a small courtyard area which is lovely in the spring and summer, but the café also provides blankets in the autumn and winter – so if you’re feeling brave, the space is open all year round! The café itself is small and there is no step free access. The toilets are also up a steep set of stairs. This is the downside of being in a little old building, and through no fault of the business itself, but it is something to bear in mind if accessibility is a priority for your party.
The menu changes regularly, but Brew’s particular speciality is their French Toast, which changes flavour weekly. My personal favourite is the fruit-based options – when it’s summer fruits with vanilla mascarpone in June, or Apple and cinnamon in the Autumn… I am all over that. Just recently I had the Red Velvet French Toast that was the speciality for Valentine’s Day, and that was also delicious, without being overly sweet (surprisingly), whilst a friend of mine had Vegetarian Pho from the specials board. Well worth a visit for a coffee and chill – as I post this, I’m sitting in Brew enjoying a latte!
Whale Tail
Features: Vegetarian/Vegan, Child-Friendly Space.
Price: £
Address: Unit 1, 78A Penny Street, Lancaster
The Whale Tail has been in business in Lancaster for over twenty-five years and has recently undergone a full renovation. There is a large indoor café area, as well as ample seating outside which is found just across the road from the Sir Richard Owen pub. The café has a Vegetarian and Vegan menu, but with plenty of diverse options therein; I’m a particular fan of the vegetarian breakfast (despite not being vegetarian), it’s extremely filling and definitely sets you up for the day ahead.
There is an exhibition space for local artists, and there are also activities for children in a child friendly space. The café is above a Vegan Wholefood Co-operatively owned shop called Single Step where a sustainable shopper can be ethically sourced produce and provisions such as soap, sanitary products, and household goods.
Stonewell Spring (Quarterhouse)
Features: Deli-style, Licensed Premises, Later Opening
Price: £££
Address: 5 Stonewell, Lancaster
The newest option on this first list, the Stonewell Spring is a lovely deli with a collection of outdoor and indoor seating, just down the street from The Dukes Independent Cinema & Theatre, as well as The Grand Theatre (I used to pop down here to get a lovely coffee before the matinee performances of the pantomime in 2024!). The deli does take-out coffee and cakes, as well sit down options. The deli also offers a wine and cheese tasting platters and are open until 8pm at the weekend. They also run their own Cheese Club, where for a monthly subscription fee you can get a selection of cheeses and accompaniments.
Stay tuned for Café Culture in Lancaster: Part Two!
Features: Outside seating, dog friendly, excellent for breakfast.
Price: ££
Address: Tithebarn Hill, Glasson Dock, Lancaster LA2 0BY
The Quayside at Glasson Dock is a charming little café on the side of the marina and lock at Glasson Dock. The café stands next to a little village shop and the famous Port of Lancaster Smokehouse Shop and has indoor and outdoor spaces to sit and eat. It is very popular on the weekend, especially with motorbike riders, cyclists, and other out-and-abouters. Once you get a load of the food you will understand why. Not only are the portion sizes for the breakfasts extremely generous, the food is also delicious. It’s all cooked from scratch (so at busier times it might take a little bit longer to get to you), but it’s well worth the wait.
My favourite is a Potato Cake Stack which is a potato pancake, black pudding (your choice whether you have this deep-fried or not, just to make it extra unhealthy!), poached egg, extra bacon if you want it, and another potato pancake on the bottom. This then comes with a little bit of sweet chilli jam, and hollandaise sauce (I choose to have it without the hollandaise as I’ve never really been a fan). It is delicious. I’ve had it so often in there that now when I sit down the lady knows exactly what I want and how I like (right down to the crispy bacon (can’t be doing with flubby bacon – yuck!)). Mum sometimes has a Small Breakfast when we come down here, but often just has a very tasty (and very generous) bacon roll.
I especially like going along in the summer months when I can sit at one of the tables outside and enjoy the sunshine whilst looking out over the marina. The café is dog friendly, both inside and out, so your pooches can come along for some breakfast or lunch with you. The café also does Fish & Chips on a Friday night which I am going to try sometime soon!
After you’ve finished breakfast, you can go for a wander down the quayside and have a look in the smokehouse shop, which as the name suggests has products from the actual smoke house found just down the road; everything from smoked haddock, to chicken, to cheese. There are also lots of other delicious things to be found in there like the famous Morecambe Bay Potted Shrimp in brown butter. I’m particularly partial to their conserves and jams, as well as their sweets and snack selection.
Had a delightful lunch at the Inn at Whitewell for my mum’s 70th birthday earlier this month. The Inn is a sixteenth century coaching inn that sits in the middle of the gorgeous Trough of Bowland next to the River Hodder. As a family, we’d been to the Inn before and had a wonderful meal, so it was a no brainer to go back again for mum’s special birthday.
The kitchen garden at the Inn
The Inn itself isn’t the easiest place to get to, and unfortunately driving is the only option as it is rather remote, on a country road halfway between Lancaster and Clitheroe. It takes about half an hour from Lancaster, and the road is very twisty and turny, but through some beautiful North Lancashire countryside. Just be aware that in many parts the road is narrow (so passing places are used) and also open to the fields where there may be sheep and lambs on or very close to the road.
Anyway, back to the Inn. I rang up before the day to ask for a bottle of Prosecco on the table when we arrived, and they were very happy to accommodate. In the eventuality we were early so it came just after we sat down – that wasn’t the inn’s fault that it wasn’t there, as I mentioned we were fifteen minutes early! I’d also asked whether they were able to do something with candles. As it transpired, they were able to put a candle in our shared pudding, so she could blow out a birthday candle and make a wish.
The Inn itself has a reputation for excellence in food and service, with head chef Jamie Cadman now in his twentieth year of being there, producing excellent cuisine and highlighting produce from the local area. The Inn is particularly well known for its fish pie, of which they were able to do a smaller portion for mum for her main. This was great because she can often become over faced by large portions of food and be put off, so it was great that they were able to accommodate a slightly smaller appetite and do a half-portion. She’d had queen scallops to start with. It must have been serendipity that scallops were on the special’s menu on her birthday, as they are her absolute favourite. Must have known we were coming! I didn’t have a starter, instead choosing to have the roast beef (with deliciously cut sirloin) and two Yorkshire puddings (my favourite!) and then having room to share a sticky toffee pudding with mum. Anyway, it was absolutely delicious and when I rose from the table, I was pleasantly full, rather than overly stuffed, which is sometimes a side effect of eating in these nice places.
The inn also has rooms, and other activities available for those who would like to stay. It is also very popular with walkers, as it is surrounded by beautiful rolling countryside, to go off for a nice amble or a more strenuous hike, before heading to the pub for lunch (Be aware that the pub serves lunch between 12pm – 2pm, so your party will need to order before 2pm). What a lovely way to spend a weekend morning and lunchtime!
