Roughly equidistant between the cities of Carlisle and Newcastle, and in the heart of Hadrian’s Wall country, sits the pretty little village of Bardon Mill. The nearest towns (in size descending order) are Hexham, Haltwhistle, and Corbridge. As you approach the village by the main road, you’ll see signs which say “smoke,” which could be a little bit concerning, but actually it’s just the working pottery and it depends which way the wind is blowing (and whether they’re firing that day) as to whether the smoke is coming across the road. The little village is often overlooked because it is just off the A69 thoroughfare between two major cities in the North, but it is well worth a stop over (maybe for lunch?) if your journey allows it.
The village boasts a popular local pub The Bowes Hotel (named after the Bowes-Lyon family that were resident in the area from the 18th-20th century), as well as a community store and tearoom just across the road from the pub, if your mood is more scone than Sunday lunch. The village also has a large working pottery (Errington Reay) that has been going since 1878, where today you can go and watch the potters at work, or take part in workshop to learn a little bit about the art yourself. This is the only commercial pottery in the UK that is currently licensed to produce salt glaze pottery, which produces a slightly “orange-peel” like texture to the pots, as a coating of sodium silicate is formed when the pots are fired in the kiln. It did fall out of fashion due to concerns about the air pollution produced during the process, which is why Errington Reay only fires on certain days, at specific times, and in small windows, to keep the smoke at a minimum.
The location of the village means that it is only two miles away from The Sill, the hub of Northumberland National Park; two miles from Allen Banks (which used to be the grounds of Ridley Hall, see below) and Staward Gorge; two miles from Vindolanda; and only three miles from the wall itself. No matter what you’re in the mood to do in this beautiful part of the world, then Bardon Mill is a great place to do it from. This village truly is in the heart of Hadrian’s Wall country, so is a great hub and base to plan a day’s activities – come for breakfast in the tearoom, and set out from there!
Other historical landmarks include the beautiful Georgian Ridley Hall, about a mile away, and was once the northern residence of the Bowes-Lyon family (i.e. the late Queen’s Mother). Now however, it is actually the boarding wing of a nearby prep school (fancy!), and is used for weddings and functions on the weekends and school holidays when the students are not in residence. Sadly it is not open to the public (although they do host an annual Burns Night community Ceilidh, which seems like an excellent opportunity to get inside!), but you can admire the hall itself from a distance from the numerous walking paths and the roads nearby.
The village is connected to both Carlisle and Newcastle, as well as the nearby towns and villages, by an active trainline and bus services, so it’s very easy to get to from either of those larger cities. Centred around its community and celebrating its stunning location, Bardon Mill remains connected and welcoming to visitors, year round.
